Glossary

All Over:  A pattern that covers the entire tie with a single or multiple pattern. Also can be known as repeating pattern.

Ancient Madder: Type of vegetable dye for silk fabrics. Soft-tone printed fabric for neckwear. Usually found in paisley and foulard prints.

Bandana:  Bright-colored square of cotton, linen, silk; used as a handkerchief, or scarf.  

Bat-wing: Another name for the Butterfly bowtie.

Bengal Stripe:  Boldly colored stripes of cotton fabric in dress, sport and pajamas.

Bowtie:  A type of tie with two looped ends and two straight ends.

Button-Down Collar:  Shirt collar points fastened to the shirt with buttons and buttonholes.

Calvary Twill:  Sturdy-weave fabric with pronounced raised diagonal cord of wool on jackets and trousers.

Cashmere:  Fabric made from the hair of Cashmere goats. Soft finish. Used in all types of men's clothing.

Challis:  Lightweight, fine-spun, closely woven fabric in a spun wool; dyed or printed in neckwear.

Club Tie:  Ties bearing a woven emblem of a club, university, or corporation. It can found on stripes, shields and symbols.

Cutaway Collar:  The measurement between the collar tips of a shirt.

Dress Shirt:  A collared-attached shirt that is worn for business or sportswear casual. It's designated with a numerical neck size in the collar and double or single cuffs.

FINICKEY: " A gentleman very particular about his clothing."

Flannel:  Loosely woven fabric with a napped surface to conceal the weave, made mainly from wool in men's clothing.

Foulard:  Lightweight silk twill fabric with small printed designs; used in neckwear, pocket squares, bowties, and scarves.

Four-In-Hand: Type of neckwear knot by wrapping the wider end of a tie around the other end, drawing under and through the loop formed, and tightening and sliding it in place.

French Cuffs:  A double or turned back cuff of a shirt, fastened together by cufflinks.   

Gingham-Check:  Plain-weave cotton shirt fabric in checks; found in dress and sport shirts. 

Grenadine: Neckwear fabric of a gauze-like quality made on a jacquard loom in which the threads cross from side to side. 

Ghillie: Tongueless oxford, laced across instep. 

Haberdasher: Merchant dealing in gentlemen dress furnishings such as shirts, neckwear and hosiery. 

 

Hacking Jacket: Riding coat or sportcoat with slight flare at bottom, deep side vents, hacking slant pockets with at time a ticket or change pocket on the right side above lower pocket.

Hand-Rolled: Edge rolled and sewn by hand, as in a pocket-square, neckwear and scarves.

Herringbone: Broken-Twill weave with zig-zag effect produced by alternating the direction of the twill. It's found in suits, sportcoats and topcoats.

Hopsack: Coarse, open-weave  fabric in wool yarns. A mesh-like appearance; blazers and suiting's.

Houndstooth Check: Broken Design pattern simulating canine teeth, sometimes called Dogtooth. Used in wools, cottons and silks.

Jacquard: Method of achieving intricate pattern and color effects on fabric through weaving. Used in ties, shirts and sportswear.

Khaki: General term for warp twill's and drills dyed to this shade. Trousers, jackets, suits and uniforms.

Macclesfield: Rough, open weave, usually in small all-over pattern. Names derived from districts in England where they were woven. Used in neckwear.

Mackintosh: Waterproof outerwear coat made in England.

Merino: Wool from merino sheep woven into luxurious soft fabric resembling cashmere; used in sweaters, shirting's, and sportswear.

Mogador: Heavily corded tie silk with close-packed threads, combination of silk and cotton for a firm texture. Vividly colored stripes in ties.

Moleskin Cloth: Cotton-filled sateen fabric backed with a thick fur-like nap. Used in trousers, jackets, and outerwear.

Neckerchief: A square of cotton, silk or linen for wearing around the neck.

Ottoman: Densely woven fabric with crosswise ribs; in silk, used for neckwear.

Oxford Shirting: Modified plain or basket-weave cotton fabric; used in dress and sportshirts.

Paisley: Intricate all-over pattern, printed or woven designs made into neckwear, scarves and other dress furnishings.

Polka-Dot: A pattern of small or large dots made by printing or weaving; used in neckwear, scarves, pocket-squares.

Print: Term used to designate fabrics with applied designs of dye on rollers, blocks or screens by printing.

Regimental Tie:  Colors identified in England with various regiments used in neckwear. Similar colors and arrangements are used in neckwear in England and the United States.

Repp (Rep): Corded fabric with pronounced crosswise rib; made of silk, wool ; used for neckwear and dress furnishings.

Seven-Fold Tie: A tie without interlining made with seven folds of fabric.

Shirting: Fabric: Fabric utilized for the production of dress or sport shirts. Mainly of cotton fabrication.

Silk: Natural fiber from cocoon of silkworm. It is used for neckwear, shirts, robes and sportswear.

Twill: A basic weave; features distinct diagonal line; used in all fabrics.